Newsletter

Pets Help to Lower Blood Pressure—A recent study at the State University of New York at Buffalo found that people with hypertension who adopted a cat or dog had lower blood pressure readings in stressful situations than those who did not own a pet. (Dr. Karen Allen, State University of New York at Buffalo)

Pets Help to Reduce Stress—Walking with a pet helps to soothe nerves and offers instant relaxation. Studies conducted worldwide have shown that the impact of a stressful situation is lesser on pet owners, especially males, than on those who do not own a pet. (Josephine M. Wills, Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition, United Kingdom)

Pets Help to Prevent Heart Disease—Because pets provide people with faithful companionship, research shows they may also provide their owners with greater psychological stability, thus a measure of protection from heart disease. (National Institute of Health Technology Assessment Workshop: Health Benefits of Pets)

Pets Help to Lower Health Care Costs—People with pets actually make fewer doctor visits, especially for non-serious medical conditions. (National Institute of Health Technology Assessment Workshop: Health Benefits of Pets)

Pets Help to Fight Depression—Pets help fight depression and loneliness, promoting an interest in life. When seniors face adversity or trauma, affection from pets takes on great meaning. Their bonding behavior can foster a sense of security. (Between Pets and People: The Importance of Animal Companionship)

So you’ve added a pet cat to your family. Maybe you imagined yourself sitting down with a big furry Persian in front of the fireplace, petting him and listening to him purr. Or maybe you liked the idea of having a perky little tabby greet you at the door after your work day was finished. Perhaps it was the thought of a playful kitten waking you up in the morning.

Cats can be wonderful companions. But sometimes things don’t work out exactly the way you thought they would. Maybe your new cat would rather rest on the chair at the other end of the room than lie down on the sofa next to you. Or perhaps your cat has even hissed at or scratched you when you tried to pick him up.

Often, when people don’t live happily with their cats, it’s because the pet owners didn’t establish a good bonding when they first brought the kitty home.

Bonding is the first step toward successfully living with your cat. Bonding means creating a personal relationship between you and your pet. This includes mutual respect, trust and love. You are a special person to your cat, and your cat should be special to you.

It’s important that each member of the household develops his or her own unique relationship with the family cat. The person who bathes, feeds and trains the cat may bond as a substitute mother. A child who plays with the cat may relate to him as a brother or sister, and the person who sits quietly with the cat on his or her lap and pets him may bond as a friend.

It’s easiest to bond with a new kitten, but even if your cat is an adult and you’ve had him for several months or even years, it’s still possible to strengthen the bond you have with him if you are willing to work at it.

Here are 10 suggestions for building a solid bond with your feline friend:

1. Include your cat in your daily activities. Invite your cat to be with you while you clean house, watch television, sort through the mail, work at the computer or read the newspaper. The more activities your cat observes you doing, the more he will trust you in all situations.
2. Talk often to your cat. Verbal communication is one of the most important aspects of bonding. Don’t feel silly sitting down and talking to your cat. He may not understand the words you use, but he can understand a warm, friendly tone of voice.
   
   Use your cat’s name often. This will grab his attention and establish a personal relationship between the two of you.
3. Get to know your cat’s individual personality. Every cat is different; some are shy and independent, while others are outgoing and crave attention. Adapt your lifestyle to the particular personality of your cat. Try different behaviors on your cat and see what works. If you want your cat to be affectionate, you have to determine what you can do to make him act that way.
4. Provide a consistent daily routine. Cats don’t like surprises. They feel safe and secure with a routine. Establish an acceptable daily schedule with your cat early in the relationship. Let him know how often and when to expect meals, walks on the leash and play sessions. Don’t spend two hours a day with your cat one week and only a few minutes a day with him the following week.
   
   You also should be consistent with the behaviors you allow and don’t allow. Don’t yell "no" when he jumps on the counter today and then let it slide tomorrow. If you are inconsistent in how you interact with your cat, you will confuse him and he won’t feel as though he can trust you.
5. Give a new cat plenty of privacy. When you bring a new cat into your home, you should give him a room of his own for two to four weeks. Sit in the room for an hour a day, reading or just relaxing, but don’t force the cat to interact with you. Make yourself available, but let your cat be the one to make the first move.
   
   If your cat starts walking toward you, put some catnip or other treat around your chair. This encourages the cat to move toward you. Never reach out to grab a frightened cat nor drag a cat out from under a chair.
   
   It’s important that you respect your cat’s fears and inhibitions. Remind yourself that he is in a new environment. Go especially slow with an older, adopted cat who may have been a stray. Give your cat time to see you’re not a threat, and eventually he will leave himself open to develop a relationship with you.
6. Avoid harsh corrections. If your cat misbehaves, do not hit, holler or punish him. You can tell him "no," but do so only to stop unacceptable behavior. Don’t yell or scream. You can use a squirt bottle or air horn to stop your cat from scratching your furniture or drapes, but be careful not to link yourself with the correction.
   
   Hide the squirt bottle as you spray. You want your cat to think the drapes have a life of their own, that the drapes did the squirting. If the cat thinks you did it, it may be harder to bond with him.
7. Provide frequent play and exercise. Play with your cat several times each day using tossed toys, fishing pole toys, rolled balls or other interactive cat toys. By playing with your cat and giving him things to do, you build a bond because the cat is thinking, ’when mom or dad is home, I have more fun.’ This causes the cat to welcome you that much more. If you’re a positive object in your cat’s life, he’s going to seek you out.
   
   Avoid tug-of-war and other games that encourage aggressive behavior. Resist the temptation to roll your cat on his back and rub his tummy. When you do that, you encourage the cat to use his claws and teeth on your hands. It seems like that’s a lot of fun, but cats get overexcited and can become quite aggressive as a result.
8. Touch with affection. Show your cat you care about him - stroke his fur, pat his head, scratch behind his ears, even gently squeeze his paws. Physical contact is a wonderful way to make your cat feel loved. However, avoid quick, jerky movements that might startle him.

9. Hold your cat securely. Pick up your cat firmly, but gently, supporting his entire body. If you let his limbs dangle, he will resist and may struggle or bite you.
   
   Hold your cat by sliding your right hand between his front legs and around his upper body. Put your left hand under his rear end and around the outside of his body, pulling him into you so he feels secure. You want your cat to trust you; you don’t want him to feel as though you’re going to drop him.
10. Give your cat the time he needs. Some people buy a cat and want a best friend immediately. Bonding is not automatic. It may take a couple of weeks to bond with a kitten and several months to bond with an older cat. Having a strong bond with your cat takes time. Go slowly and don’t expect too much too fast.

You will have both good and bad days with your cat. Like people, now and then cats get grumpy, Be patient and understanding. Treat your cat as a good friend and sooner than later, he’ll be one.

Puppy socialization should begin early in life. In fact, the most important period of time for socialization of the puppy is during the first three months of his or her life. If the puppy is not well-adjusted, future problems may result. Some of these problems include, but are not limited to, fear and aggression.

The puppy should not be removed from its mother or litter mates before seven weeks of age. These first seven weeks are important in the socialization process. The interaction between mother and litter mates is the earliest and perhaps the most important socialization period.

Socializing your new puppy requires time, energy, and patience. Begin the socialization process slowly and gradually. Invite one or two friends over to your home to meet and play with the puppy. Take the puppy for short frequent walks. Always reward him or her for good behavior. Never give a treat, praise, or reward for bad behavior.

After your puppy has completed his series of vaccinations, introduce him to a public park where he can encounter large groups of people and other dogs. Do not force the introduction. Reward him with a treat whenever he meets another person or another dog.

It's important that your puppy socializes with children. Dogs often do not recognize the fact that children are small humans. They often misinterpret them for another species. Make sure that children are involved in the socialization process.

Puppy classes are an excellent way to learn how to socialize your new puppy. These classes are not only good for education, they also allow your puppy to socialize with other dogs in a controlled environment.

Call your veterinary hospital for a list of puppy classes in your area. The staff at your local veterinary hospital generally knows the classes and the instructors that have the best reputations.

Owning a bird can be an extremely rewarding experience. There are keys to a successful relationship that, if followed properly, allow for a mutually beneficial companionship that can last for decades. Birds have particular needs that must be met in order for them to remain happy and healthy. An extremely important need is housing. Here are some guidelines to follow when thinking about how to house your bird properly.

While caging your bird in the house may at first seem cruel, consider the surroundings. Pet birds may be allowed to remain on perches while you are home to supervise their activity, but they should be confined to cages while you are away to avoid accidental injury and other potential mishaps. Trouble is very often the result of unsupervised birds. Not only can your bird be terribly destructive to your belongings (furniture, decorations, etc.), but all homes contain objects that can be both directly and indirectly harmful to birds. Mirrors, windows, walls, house plants, electrical cords and items containing harmful chemicals are all general hazards. Birds resting on perches are usually happy to stick around; however, if frightened by a loud noise or sudden movement, these unexpected flights can cause your bird to crash into a wall, door, window or mirror because of its confusion.

Helpful Bird Care Information

• The major source of poisoning of pet birds is lead. Found in random places (curtain weights and/or pulls, leaded and stained glass, fishing sinkers, ammunition, costume jewelry), many caged birds seem to have an affinity for this soft metal and love to chew on it. Unfortunately, even a small amount can lead to poisoning, if ingested. Lead poisoning can be successfully treated if diagnosed early enough.
• Caged birds allowed unrestricted freedom in the home may eat house plants or chew on electrical cords, resulting in illness and injury. Some unsupervised pet birds chew on or swallow macrame, carpet, and other similar fabrics, resulting in crop and intestinal impaction.
• Free-flying birds are vulnerable to injury from ceiling fans and hot stoves, as well as attacks by pet dogs, cats and ferrets sharing the same household. It is wise not to underestimate the aggressiveness of our four-legged friends and to restrict contact between them and pet birds as much as possible.
• Birds allowed unrestricted freedom and flight within the home may escape through open doors and windows. Most bird owners have the mistaken notion that their bird would never fly away and leave them. Unfortunately, birds that have escaped the owner’s home become disoriented easily when outdoors. This confusion makes return or capture of the escaped bird very unlikely.
• The location of the cage and/or perch in the home is important. Some birds thrive in areas of heavy traffic where they receive lots of attention and are part of the action. Others seem to prefer more privacy and solitude. A pet bird should never be kept in the kitchen. In addition to the obvious gas fumes and occasional smoke from cooking food, there is another, much more dangerous, threat to birds in the kitchen. Super-heated Teflon, and related brand-name non-stick pan coatings, emits fumes that are deadly to all birds. This "accident" happens most often when someone inadvertently leaves a pan coated with a non-stick surface on a lighted gas or electric range burner. The pan becomes hot and the non-stick coating overheats, emitting toxic fumes. Birds that inhale these fumes die quickly.
• Free-flying birds tend to assume a more dominant posture in their relationship with people, and often become intolerably aggressive.
• Contrary to popular opinion, drafts are not harmful to healthy pet birds. A draft is really nothing more than a slight movement of air, usually accompanied by a mild temperature drop. A bird’s feathers provide insulation against temperature extremes far in excess of what a draft represents. Drafts are usually inconsequential to pet birds. The notable exception to this is the cool and sometimes cold air produced by air conditioners. Most caged birds cannot tolerate the rapid temperature extremes produced by thermostatically controlled air conditioners. For this reason, cages and perches should not be positioned directly beside or beneath air conditioning, heating or ventilation outflows. Sick birds should always be removed from drafty circumstances to prevent heat loss.
• Covering the bird’s cage at night is open to question. Because of the tremendous insulating capacity of feathers, covering a bird’s cage at night may not be necessary to protect the bird from cool drafts at night, when the thermostat is usually turned down. The one exception to this would be chilly nights in colder climates. A benefit of covering your bird’s cage at night is that it provides a regular period of privacy not usually allowed during the day. Further, it tends to keep the bird quiet in the early morning when it would otherwise become active and vocal. If you now cover your bird’s cage at night, continue to do so. If you have not done so in the past and find that your pet bird panics or acts agitated with a cover over its cage, there is no need to continue doing so.
• The most obvious consideration when selecting a cage is the size of the bird. A factor that often gets overlooked when looking at cages is that these cages will be occupied not only by the bird but also food bowls, perches, toys and whatever else the owner chooses. These objects, while absolutely necessary, dramatically cut down the amount of open space in the cage. Another important determinant is the bird’s activity level. You will notice some discrepancies between birds and the size of the cage required. Round cages should not be used. They do not give your pet a point of reference and can lead to psychological problems.

There are many ideas proposed for how to choose the right dog. Some include that a large dog is not suitable for an apartment, elderly owners, or for mild-mannered women. However, some large, agile dogs adapt well to apartment or condo living as long as they get a daily walk, and some are gentle enough that anyone with a firm voice and manner can easily handle them. Many suggest that small dogs may be unsuitable for families with active children or elderly or infirm relatives who could trip over a small, bouncy critter but there are many examples that prove counter to this argument. There are better ways to try to choose your right dog. Consider the following and what best fits your personality and life style.

Temperament

There are particular breed temperaments; however, there definitely is latitude for individuality. Thus Akitas are declared to be tough animals, loyal, aloof, dominant, aggressive to other animals, and often challenging. However, many Akitas are sweet and cuddly, love small critters, will climb in laps if allowed, and are anything but aloof and dominant.

Terriers are scrappy, yippy, tough, and independent, but Airedale Terriers bond very closely to their humans and are somewhat protective. Hounds follow their eyes or noses and are often oblivious to human presence, but Dachshunds bond closely with their families and Greyhounds and Whippets are sweet, gentle pets.

Coat (Fur)

Long-coated and double-coated dogs shed, shed, and shed some more, leaving tufts of hair to float about the house and land everywhere. Meticulous housekeepers and folks with little or no time for grooming will be happier with dogs that don’t accessorize the living room with dog hair dust bunnies a couple of times a year. Brushing is needed to remove the dead hair from wire-coated terriers and poodles, and professional grooming is necessary to maintain texture and color in wirehaired terriers. These breeds are generally better than heavily shedding breeds for owners with allergies. Dogs with oily outer coats can develop a doggy odor that can be unpleasant, and dogs with short coats may not do well in northern climates.

Need for exercise

Some dogs are calm and others are very energetic. Active families would be happier with a pet that can jog, hike, and play ball. More sedate folks would most likely prefer a quieter animal. Cute as they are, Basset Hounds, Dachshunds, and Corgis are not jogging companions. Airedales, German Shepherds, and Border Collies are not typical couch potatoes.

Potential health problems

Large and medium breeds are subject to several joint problems, including hip and elbow dysplasia. Many breeds have eye problems, skin diseases, and inherent health problems (such as breathing problems in pugs, bulldogs, and boxers). Dalmatians are susceptible to bladder stones, several breeds carry a bleeding disorder, and Newfoundlands are vulnerable to certain heart defects. Giant breeds tend to have a shorter life span than medium or small-size breeds.

Ease of training

Some breeds are fairly easy to train, and some are quite difficult. The breeds that were designed to work independently of man require more persistence and firmness in training, while those that work closely with their owners are easier to teach. If you lack time and patience to deal with a dog that is difficult to train, then an older dog from a rescue service may fit your bill as well as a pup of a breed that is traditionally easier to train. Intelligence is not necessarily an indicator of trainability; smart dogs often have their own agenda and require firmness on the part of their owners. As a rule, terriers, hounds, and northern dogs are tough to train because of their intelligence and independent natures. Sporting and herding dogs are easier to train. The sharpest-working obedience breeds are Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Border Collies, German Shepherds, and Shetland Sheepdogs. These dogs traditionally work well with humans.

Deciding on a breed of dog is important. A dog is a family member for a dozen or more years; the commitment to feed, shelter, and nurture a member of the family for that amount of time should be based on rigorous analysis of an appropriate breed for the family circumstances.

Looking at the results of laboratory tests done on your pet can be very confusing, overwhelming and at times, even frightening. As your pet's care giver, it is important for you to have a general understanding of laboratory tests and what their results mean. This information can be valuable when it comes to deciding medical treatment options that are important as well as available for your pet.

Generally, in order to conduct a test, a sample of your pet's blood and/or urine is collected. Once collected, it can be stored in various kinds of tubes to help preserve the sample and provide the laboratory technicians with a clean specimen.

So what does it mean when your veterinarian says she needs to run some blood work on your pet? Blood work (pre-surgical or otherwise) is usually a combination of a complete blood count (CBC) and a blood chemical analysis. Blood work is a basic evaluation tool. It also helps your veterinarian diagnose a pet's disease or monitor the progression of a disease.

The cellular elements of the blood are examined in the CBC. The CBC determines the number of erythrocytes (red blood cells), the number and type of leukocytes (white blood cells), the number of thrombocytes (platelets), the hemoglobin level and the hematocrit (packed cell volume or PCV). Erythrocytes carry oxygen throughout the body. Leukocytes fight infection and are part of the immune system. There are actually five different types of white blood cells: neutrophils, lymphocytes, basophils, eosinophils, and monocytes. Platelets are clotting proteins and can indicated how fast your pet's blood cans; slow clotting can be a serious problem. A CBC can tell your veterinarian if your pet has an unusual number of red blood cells, white cells or platelets. The numerical values for these cells can indicate if your pet's health is improving or deteriorating.

The results of a chemistry panel can indicate how well your pet's kidney and liver are functioning and the level of electrolytes in the blood. Blood chemistries are run on the fluid portion of the blood sample, not the cells in the blood. The chemistry panel usually includes the following tests, though there can be more: alkaline phosphatase (SAP, ALP), alanine transaminase (ALT), blirubin total (T Bili), blood urea nitrogen (BUN), creatinine and creatinine kinase (CK, CPK), sodium, potassium, glucose, total protein, and albumin. Alkaline phospatase, alanine transaminase, bilirubin, and albumin give your veterinarian information about your pet's liver function. Blood urea nitrogen, creatinine and creatinine kinase give your veterinarian some insight as to how well your pet's kidneys are functioning.

Below are descriptions of each indicator and what an abnormal result could possibly mean. Please note that an isolated abnormal value may not indicate a problem.

Alkaline phosphatase: Used extensively as a tumor marker, it is also present with liver injury, bone injury, pregnancy, or skeletal growth (elevated values). Growing animals have normally higher levels of this enzyme. Low levels are sometimes found in protein deficiency, malnutrition and a number of vitamin deficiencies.

Alanine transaminase: Increased levels are seen in liver damage, kidney infection, chemical pollutants, or myocardial infarction.

Bilirubin (total): Elevated in liver disease, hemolytic anemia, low levels of exposure to the sun and toxic effects to some drugs. Decreased levels are seen in people with an inefficient liver, excessive fat digestion, and possibly a diet low in nitrogen bearing foods.

Blood urea nitrogen: Increases can be caused by excessive protein intake, kidney damage, certain drugs, low fluid intake, intestinal bleeding, exercise, or heart failure. Decreased levels may be due to a poor diet, malabsorption, liver damage, or low nitrogen intake.

Creatinine: Low levels are sometimes seen in kidney damage, protein starvation, liver disease, or pregnancy. Elevated levels are sometimes seen in kidney disease due to the kidneys job of excreting creatinine, muscle degeneration, and some drugs involved in impairment of kidney function.

Glucose: Elevated in diabetes, liver disease, obesity, and pancreatitis due to steroid medications, or during stress. Low levels may be indicative of liver disease, overproduction of insulin, or hypothyroidism.

Total protein: Decreased levels may be due to poor nutrition, liver disease, malabsorption, diarrhea, or severe burns. Increased levels are seen in lupus, liver disease, chronic infections, leukemia, etc.

Albumin: High levels are rarely seen and are primarily due to dehydration. Low levels are seen in poor diets, diarrhea, fever, infection, liver disease, inadequate iron intake, third-degree burns and edemas, and hypocalcemia.

In addition to a blood test, your veterinarian may ask for a urine sample to run a urinalysis. A urinalysis can provide information about several organ systems. The concentration, color, clarity, and mircroscopic examination of the urine sample can help your veterinarian diagnose certain health problems in your pet. Urine may be obtained by catching a sample during normal urination, by passing a catheter into the bladder or by placing a small needle through the body wall into the bladder, a procedure called cystocentesis. Depending upon why the urine sample is being collected, one collection method may be preferred over another.

Color - Urine color will vary between species, but it is normally some shade of yellow depending on the concentration. Abnormal color changes in the urine could be due to drugs, increased urinary pigments or red blood cells. Occasionally, unusual colors may be caused by dyes associated with food or drugs.

Clarity - Urine is normally transparent. In small animals, turbidity or the lack of clarity, suggests the presence of cells, casts, or crystals. Often refrigeration will cause the sedimentation of crystals in the urine, producing a cloudy appearance. This is usually of no significance.

Odor - Urine has a characteristic smell that varies slightly by species and concentration of the sample. A particularly foul odor may occur in the presence of bacteria. Thus, strong smelling urine is common in cases of infection. Sweet smelling urine can also indicate abnormal renal function so it is always important to note any strong odor associated with your pet's urine.

pH - Urine pH will be affected by many things including the diet, handling of the sample, and acid-base balance of your pet. An alkaline pH is most indicative of an infection. Normal pH is between 6 and 8 for most animals depending on their diet.

Glucose - In the normal animal there should not be glucose in the urine. If glucose is present, it is a classic response to hyperglycemia and should instigate an investigation into the possibility of diabetes in the patient.

Ketones - In the normal animal there will be no ketones in the urine. An animal that is undergoing fat metabolism or is deficient in carbohydrates will have ketones in the urine. Ketones may also be found in the urine of malnourished animals or those with diabetes.

Sedimentation - Urine sedimentation may contain cells, casts and crystals and is examined microscopically after centrifugation of the urine sample. A very small amount of all of the above mentioned sediments is normal. Concern begins when any of these components is significantly elevated.

Protein -Finding protein in the urine can be a difficult assessment. Concentrated urine can contain small amounts of proteins. Protein in your pet's urine is generally caused by inflammation, hemorrhage or protein losing kidney disease.

Blood - There should never be blood in the urine of a normal animal. Collection methods could cause blood to appear in the urine but other causes include infection, neoplasia, or trauma.